Entries Tagged as 'Business'

Behind the Doors of Van Cleef & Arples L’Ecole

14.07.13

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You could not pay me to put my school uniform back on – those itchy blue sweaters and heavy long kilts – but when I was invited to a class at Van Cleef and Arpels’ new L’Ecole, I’d have pulled that jumper on faster than you can say detention. Of course that was not required: oh no, the pupils here were in head-to-toe Savile Row, gripping Montblanc pens and ready to take on the challenges of gemology with an enthusiasm unknown to my old chemistry classroom.

Located a short walk from Place Vendôme in Paris, Van Cleef’s grand school was opened in 2010 in an effort to educate customers new and old about the secretive fine jewellery industry. This is the place to learn where and how precious gems are formed and sold, why you should never buy rubies in the afternoon (yellow light distorts the gem’s true clarity) and how those stones, once found, are cut.


Arriving off the Eurostar, I dashed over to class in a new kind of uniform Escada mesh dress – to join my fellow students: an Arab prince, a Japanese businessman and two very keen Texan women. When I asked them why they were here, the Texans excitedly replied that they wanted to turn their shopping habits into a hobby. “And also just to sound more intelligent when someone compliments my ring or earrings!” they explained.


The inquisitive Arab man was definitely there to learn the trade, but at the end, when I asked our teacher Isobel if opening the school would be USP suicide, giving away their brand secrets and all, she laughed. “No, of course not. We want to grow the fine jewellery market. We are the wise old teacher, we have unique cuts and a history that will never be crushed by competition. ”The Japanese businessman was thrilled that the school will open as a pop-up of sorts in Tokyo this year. An interesting move, I thought – why not China? But with a playful sense of design, characterised by eccentricity and feminine whimsy, it’s easy to see why Japan is one of their biggest markets.

As we broke for afternoon tea in the lavish mini-Versailles sitting room (a far cry from my common-room cereal bars), I pondered over a macaroon what the Americans had said about turning their shopping habits into a hobby. By providing an education and insight into their brand and industry, Van Cleef have created a new, dedicated army of ambassadors. Experiential retail is the key to attracting customers offline and into stores. Embracing honesty and education in the retail experience is the way to acquire and retain loyal customers, and excite a brand passion that mere product alone cannot offer.

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That being said, as we put down our magnifying glasses and the diamonds went back into the safe, it was the product I was desperate for. And so without any pressure or expectation from our teachers, I made a beeline for the store. I left not only with my first piece of Van Cleef, but the most memorable retail experience I have ever had. 

Read more of my articles for TANK over at BecauseLondon.com

The Secrets of Santa Maria Novella

08.06.13

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Founded in Florence, Italy, by Dominican Friars shortly after 1221,  the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, situated behind the famous church of the same name, is one of the world’s oldest pharmacies. With the apothecary originally serving the church’s monks ,little by little the products made their way into the public domain, and in 1700 the pharmacy became an open retail location, with its balms and ointments in international demand even as early as the 18th century.

Now with over 25 stores worldwide from London to Taipei, how has this centuries old brand remained relevant? And what lessons can retailers learn from their Florentine flagship store?

Through word of mouth 4 or 5 years ago, Santa Maria Novella came onto my brand radar via a conversation I had about soap with a very glamorous woman in the south of France. Ever since,  I have noticed it, so whilst finding myself in Florence the other weekend I had to make a trip to the flagship.  The entrance to SMN is as low-key and humble as the products themselves. Located on a side street behind the church square, the anticipation and sense of true local discovery is already building positive emotions in the consumer mind. A great wooden door leads you into a marble entrance hall to a buzzing, renaissance atrium of activity.

What’s interesting about the retail set up of this quasi-luxury brand is its balance of church like reverence and serenity, museum like importance, and the trust traditional apothecary retail brings. Split into four decandtley decorated rooms, the main foyer houses the vast majority of products behind curiosity like antique cabinets. The sheer volume and diversity of merchandise was initially daunting – there is no clear journey to take, but this is not a grab and go style shop. The focus is on immersing the consumer soothingly into all manner of lotions and potions.  

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The decision to place interactive digital screens in every corner has definitely worked to their advantage, helping consumers find the item they may need, and indeed it was the touch point I noticed many asian consumers used ,rather than talking to staff.   Restaurant like menus in over 10 languages are stacked in neat wooden racks that list the products and prices, again emphasising the freedom of consumers to wonder through to say, the candle and fragrance room, or the tea shop and museum, literally with all the information they need to hand.

 When one wants to buy an item, you are handed a plastic card to take with you to the till room – this separation between product discovery and conversion is the most interesting part of the shopping experience. Indeed the ‘payment room’ as it were, has a calming sense of affirmation and medicinal security, even religious faith, to instil in you the divine belief that the 20 euros you are about to spend on a tiny soap is definitely worth it. 

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For the Love of Kate Spade

21.05.13

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 I remember the first time I walked into a Kate Spade store in Pacific Place Mall in Hong Kong 6 years ago. It was packed and I gleefully stepped out with my very own tote bag.  Kate Spade was preppy but glamorous, playful but chic and it’s a brand message thats booming.  Sales growth has risen dramatically in the last five years from $91 million to $462 million, using a model that include wholesale, outlet stores and their company owned and partner owned stores worldwide of which there are over 200.

Set up 20 years ago by Kate Spade her husband Andy and partners Pamela Bell and Elyce Arona the brand sold to Neiman Marcus in 1999.  In 2006 Liz Claiborne Inc. (now called Fifth & Pacific Inc.) bought the company. In 2007, the founders cashed out, and a new management was installed. Craig Leavitt, CEO, and Deborah Lloyd as president and creative director took the helm in 2008. Read more @FORBES

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Currently 20% of sales come from e-commerce, and the digital integration is pretty seamless ( next day delivery after 9pm anyone?!) In another effort to reach the millennium customer a third division is being created – Kate Spade Saturday. Like Lanvin Blue, the label is available from its Tokyo store only and will be available exclusively online in the US. Their desire to put digital first transfers across all areas of the brand- using an Animated Gif is just one example..WATCH HERE

#WHENIGETPAID #IMBUYING #KATESPADE

Prancing around at the Polo in the Pink Franny Coat and battling the Somerset House Cobbles in the Selina stripe dress (with Fairytales & Hidden Notes Jewellery!) how cute are these Totes from their Starwood Partnership $198 ( also available in London Stores- Covent Garden & Sloane Square)

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The company bases its global strategy on five pillars:

1. Brand consistency – brand comes first ensuring long term growth

2. Growth in existing markets – growth will come by increasing market share through additional door rollouts, comp sales, and launching new categories like watches

3. Product – prioritizing initiatives including Asian fashion fit and creating special products to celebrate holidays like Chinese New Yearundefined

4. Business development – pursuing new regions like India, Russia and Mexico where Kate Spade New York does not yet have a presence as well as select new Asian and Latin American territories.

5. Business model by region – a variety of business models are used including wholly-owned subsidiaries, distribution agreements, joint ventures, and wholesaling.  Model is chosen to maximize profits and brand growth

 

SHOP MY FAVOURITE KATE SPADE ITEMS!

Glossy Box 2nd Birthday Party!

08.05.13

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To Covent Garden today where I helped luxury beauty subscription company Glossy Box host their 2nd birthday party! Presiding over a GIANT Glossy Box that opened every other hour to reveal free May boxes, I had so much fun meeting wonderful fans and hanging out with all the glossy girls, sharing beauty tips and tricks!

Launched in the UK in May 2011, Glossy Box has over 36k subscribers in the UK alone, helping consumers discover new beauty products for £10 a month, via luxurious little samples from companies including Givenchy and Nails Inc. In a moment of calm in the air stream trailer we had parked next to the box, I sat down with their uber CEO Kate Cornell to discover more about the business…

AMBER: Kate you joined as CEO in 2012 at the age of 24, what were your main aims coming into the biz?

KATE: Glossy Box had grown rapidly and there was a slight imbalance between demand and the quality of supply. My first focus was to streamline logistics, improve the tech spec and most of all get a great team together.

AMBER: From Netflix to Quarterly, subscription models are a hot ticket in ecomm right now – why?

KATE: It’s an extremely straight forward business models with a transparent revenue stream that makes cash flow easy to manage. A loyal customer database provides us with valuable consumer insights such as, the average woman in the UK spends over £50 a month on beauty related products or that women place more importance on beauty than buying a house! The model does have it challenges though, we found users were unsubscribing after 7 months so we introduced collaborations with celebrities and brands e.g. Pearl Lowe and Harrods which helped retain subscribers.

AMBER: Net-a-Porter have recently delved into beauty- what are your thoughts on this?

KATE: Yes we recently met with them actually- I think if anything it proves there is a growing market for luxury beauty products and that more can be done to emphasize the link between beauty and fashion. What we know is that people want to have luxury but not pay full price.

AMBER: It’s almost like your a decadent pringle once you pop….

KATE: Yes well there is an extremely high conversion rate in beauty between trying and buying.We’re offering you a luxurious experience of discovery for £10 coupled with our online content it makes for an engaging proposition.

AMBER: What are your tips for start ups about managing a team?

KATE: I believe whole heartedly in the importance of a lean team with one vision. Surround yourself with people from all different backgrounds that bring different points of view to the table but ultimately have passion. I  like to be harsh but fair and love engaging the team in yoga once a week or group runs and regular team lunches- It’s important to reward your talent and create an atmosphere of unity.

Thanks to Kate and the team and everyone who came down to celebrate with us today! Check out Glossy Box here!

#TODAYIWORE: All Saints Dress and Jacket, Charlotte Olympia Shoes, BARK for MYFLASHTRASH Jewellery

 ♥  Sunset Palm Tree Hoops £115 ♥

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